“Ayubowan” (Sri Lankan for Hello)! My name is Charuka Kumar. I live in the Nawala neighborhood of Colombo in the Kotte municipality of Sri Lanka. I recently lost my husband and soulmate Asiri Khan in 2016. I was 35 years then with my son, Inesh (6 years old) , and my daughter, Mithika (4 years old). I am a business owner with an electronics shop in Rajagiriya area of Colombo.
We have a family tradition of attending the Esala Perahera that usually occurs in Kandy, Central Sri Lanka.
Being from Kandy myself, I used to attend the festival on a yearly basis along with my family. I also attach great sentimental value to the festival because it is where I first met my late husband at the festival of 2008. He rarely missed the event with his family despite being from Colombo, and I intend to leave the same memorable legacy to my children.
Attending the Esala Perahera is currently not a problem for me since my parents still live in the city and are always happy to host my family, siblings, and their families, and even my in-laws in their house for the festivals. It is definitely a one of a kind, extended family reunion during this time that is religious, nostalgic, sentimental, and fun for all .
I am really glad that my kids enjoy each moment of the festival as they rarely get the time to interact with their grandparents, relatives, and my younger cousins. My son actually forces me to head to Kandy one week before the festival begins so that he can book the upper double-decker bed before anyone else arrives and claims “his” spot.
About Esala Perahera
Our family attaches great importance to religion. We believe in our Lord Buddha and look up to our Buddhist religion to guide our lives and how we interact with others. I believe that exposing my children to religion molds them to be better citizens of Sri Lanka in the future, as well as being compassionate and good people to other human beings.
The Esala Perahera means the procession of the Sinhalese calendar month of Esala that falls between July and August in the western Gregorian calendar. The procession is done in honor of the Sacred Tooth Relic of Lord Buddha, who not only founded our religion, but whose teachings inspire us in our day-to-day life.
The festival dates back to the 4th Century, eight centuries after the death of Lord Buddha, when his sacred Tooth was brought to Kandy Sri Lanka. The relic was placed under the custodianship of the Diyawadana Nilame, the head of the Buddhist temple in Kandy.
However, the Indians invaded Sri Lanka, took custody of the relic only for the British to return it to the Maha Sanga Clergy in 1885. Since then, it has been under the care of two orders of Monks.
Folklore points out that the processions were put in place to request God for rainfall to sustain the community and shield it from hunger. Later, it was used to bless the Kings of the Sinhalese People and their subjects. Currently, it is used to ask for rain and blessings for Sri Lanka as well as a show of religious observance of long-held traditions.
The Days of the Festivals
We usually attend the festival as a family. The first step is to buy saris for my daughter and sarongs for my son. They always request new garments for each day of the festival, and therefore, I am delighted to buy new pieces for the two of them.
The first procession is usually spectacular and sets the tone for what comes. Although it is mainly entertaining with a touch of a religious tone, it is interesting to watch. My daughter, a self-proclaimed feminist, used to have questions of why there were no female dancers in the procession. But her concerns were soon forgotten under the pomp and color of the panache. The thrill of Kandyan drummers, the moves of the dancers, the majestic elephants and their lavish embroidery as well as the flag bearers and musicians create a memory hard to forget.
The second procession starts from the Natha Devale which faces the Sri Dalada Maligawa. This day is exciting and different from the first in that the entertainers and the participants often appear to have been re-energized with the event of the first day.
The third festival starts from the Vishnu Devale. This procession is often spectacular, especially to my son who is an avid enthusiast of the Spearmen and Ryan Ayudha, whom he believes signifies power.
The fourth procession is the pinnacle point of everything. The excitement of the day culminates from the buildup of the splendor throughout the entire time and the peasant peacock dance. My son and daughter have a special attachment to Skanda, the warrior God.
On the last occasion, the procession starts from the Pattini Devale. The female dancers excite my daughter, and she has often asked me to get her into the group.
The Esala Perahera does not end there, the five additional days are also fun to watch alongside friendly tourists from all over the world, with many of them donning the Sri Lankan saris or sarong.
The Food Entertainment is Focal
During this time, we usually take my children to different restaurants before and after the festival to have them taste all that the world has to offer. We usually plan ahead our family food-time per different nations cuisine in no particular order.
On the Sri Lankan day, the most popular dish is the Fish Curry & Mixed Rice, Cuttlefish, the Pal Sambola, Sri Lankan Chorizos, and the Fish Cutlet Balls. To accommodate all that food, we usually order in small quantities where each person can taste each other’s food. Small fights usually erupt when Inesh eats too much of Mithika’s food as she is an expert in ordering the most mouthwatering dishes. Sometimes, they gang up on me and eat my food.
Conclusion
The Esala Perahera has great religious significance to my family’s life. Moreover, the festival also offers nostalgic memories of unique foods, shopping, witnessing millennia-old customs, meeting with relatives, journeying across beautiful tea plantations and wonderous countryside, etc.
A day at the festival is worth a year in my life, that’s for sure.
